Time to replace my pads and rotors

Those brakes are long gone. Hopefully you don't need calipers too.

derass wrote: ↑ Those brakes are long gone. Hopefully you don't need calipers too.

I was looking at these... seems to fit my budget and there were good reviews on youtube as well.

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Max-Brakes ... 70BJW9RC1V

jackrabbit000 wrote: ↑ If you are going to keep the car for a few more years, it's a no brainer that you have to have brakes. I would get it done and it's easy enough to do yourself.

Not everyone is comfortable doing brakes. And even with a tutorial personally I wouldn't try it and just pay an extra $100 by bringing your own parts to an indie mechanic and have him do it. With all that rust, I'm sure there will be problems changing pads/rotors. Last thing OP wants is be stranded in his garage with a wheel off because he couldn't put back components.

I'm all for changing own fluids like oil/transmission/coolant and the easy air and cabin filters which is robbery getting those changed at a mechanic that charges $100 for a clip-in component, but brakes...

cybersitter wrote: ↑ On my 2008 Mazda -3 i hear a screeching sound whenever i brake. Is it time to replace my pads and rotors. please see images attached. I want to keep my car for a couple of more years. Is it worth to replace it. the car is going on about 200,000 KMs in mileage, oil changes were pretty much regular. Thanks for reading the post. Suggestions are welcome.

Have you changed your brake fluid since 2008? Did you buy the car new in 2008? Brakes were never serviced for the past 12 years/200k kms?

The front were done a few years ago... the rear may be just the pads..

cybersitter wrote: ↑ The front were done a few years ago... the rear may be just the pads..

If you haven't done the brake fluid, when you get the brakes/rotors changed do that as well. Wheels are already out. If you do it at a indie mechanic, push for a discount on the brake fluid change, and only ask for a change, not flush.

Your rotors are ruined because of your pads that are completely worn out.
Check out rockauto and comlare that ro the orices lf obtaining them locally kr through canadian online retailers.
While you're at it, lube the sliding pins with sil-glyde and bleed + fill the brake fluid.
You can find instructions on how to do those by googling your car model and year, should be plenty of video tutorials about that.

Am I the only one that thinks the OP ca get away with just a brake service? He did not even have the pads out and people are jumping the gun that the pads are all gone.

cristianosham wrote: ↑ Am I the only one that thinks the OP ca get away with just a brake service? He did not even have the pads out and people are jumping the gun that the pads are all gone.

+1, I don't see signs of metal on metal, but more so of pad material fused to the rotors.

cybersitter wrote: ↑ I was looking at these... seems to fit my budget and there were good reviews on youtube as well.

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Max-Brakes ... 70BJW9RC1V

DO NOT BUY MAX BRAKES!!!!! you will regret it .. get anything else AFM like rotomax or check out rockauto or any local AFM parts store but hell no to max brakes !!!!

The rotors are badly corroded, and the pad clearly isn't making contact properly. A service isn't going to cut it. New parts are required.

Judging by how the pads and rotors look, I wouldn't be surprised if the calipers are seized too.

South Main Auto makes a good point about brake fluid changes on old cars in the rust belt: if you try to open the bleeders, you're buying new calipers. It's probably best to just leave the brake fluid at this point.

derass wrote: ↑
South Main Auto makes a good point about brake fluid changes on old cars in the rust belt: if you try to open the bleeders, you're buying new calipers. It's probably best to just leave the brake fluid at this point.

If you spray them a couple of times with penetrating fluid and let it sit, it should do the job. Patience in key so is using 6 point sockets instead of 12 to minimize the change of rounding it off

Has the car been sitting for a really long time just recently (IE: because of coronavirus)?

If the front of the rotor looks scored like that, the back of the rotor is even worse, these rotors are toast. The rotors should be replaced together with the pads. You can get a rear Daily Driver brake kit from Rockauto - something from Power Stop or Centric for under $100 CAD that should last a few years. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, try to see if any local independent mechanic can install them.

By the way, my experience with the rear brakes is that the parking brakes inside the rotor hat is in a much worse shape, likely all rusted/corroded. My rear rotors/pads still look decent for a couple more years but the parking brake shoes and hardware inside are so badly rusted that I have to replace everything inside. I will make it a habit of popping off the rear rotors to check the parking brakes inside once a year to clean them off.

I placed an order from RA on Thursday morning (all from the same warehouse) for brake parts, air/oil filters, water pump, thermostat, caliper rebuild kits, etc.) and although RA indicated that it would come on Thursday, it just arrived today - amazing shipping speed across the border and better than Amazon!

I would avoid Max Brakes as well.

Can one bleed the brake fluid without popping the tires off, but on a jack?

jeeva86 wrote: ↑ Can one bleed the brake fluid without popping the tires off, but on a jack?

Yes, you just need access to the bleeder screw.

cedarleaf wrote: ↑ If you spray them a couple of times with penetrating fluid and let it sit, it should do the job. Patience in key so is using 6 point sockets instead of 12 to minimize the change of rounding it off

The right tool makes all the difference when it comes to brake bleeding.

Better if the manufacturer didn't skimp on $0.10 to include rubber bleeder caps. I put them on all my cars and it saves alot of frustration.

Is there a reliable method to separating pads from a Brembo brake kit? My caliper bolts are like stuck on, it wouldn’t budge with my ryobi impact wrench. I don’t wanna try too much force, just in case the bolt gets worse. I was planning on trying to push the calipers back in via a flathead against the pad, but don’t want to potentially damage the rotors.

jeeva86 wrote: ↑ Is there a reliable method to separating pads from a Brembo brake kit? My caliper bolts are like stuck on, it wouldn’t budge with my ryobi impact wrench. I don’t wanna try too much force, just in case the bolt gets worse. I was planning on trying to push the calipers back in via a flathead against the pad, but don’t want to potentially damage the rotors.

What exactly are you trying to do? Replace the pads?