Doesn't PayPal will always charge that for USD transactions. Credit card companies charge 3.5% (I think). At the paypal screen, I chose the option (slightly hidden) to pay with my credit card in the original currency of the transaction.
Where would that be listed in your Paypal invoice ? I don't think I've ever seen it on any of my purchases I've made thru Paypal over the years and I've bought from both North American and Chinese online vendors.
I just logged into Paypal and there is no mention of any foreign exchange on my Activity page for the printer order. Just the following:
Paypal always does, and gouging exchange rate, that's the only points I hate about Paypal. Regular Mastercard/visa charges 2.5%. Many credit card issuer subsidies a few percent. My roger card for example, giving you 3% cashback on a purchase charged in USD. Making it effectively 0.5% cashback. I got billed around 210 I think. Can't remember the exact number.
I used this build video. He talks through how to align and tighten the machine well; this helps to get more consistent prints. The video is for the Ender 3 v2 so it's 95% applicable. I still had to read the manual that comes with the Aquila for some parts that were slightly different.
You will need wire clippers as the Aquila doesn't come with any. You don't need anything fancy as you'll be using them to cut filament ends. I'm not sure they sell them at the dollar store but I would check there first.
Unlike the ender 3 v2, the Aquila doesn't come with an extruder knob. Instead, they threw an stl of a knob in the sdcard. The problem is that all-plastic extruder knobs strip very easily. Get an m3 screw and print one like this one that I redesigned. It uses an m3x6mm set screw.
The Z-axis rod has no lubrication and squeaks. So I applied a thick/tacky grease I had laying around.
Things I would do after the first month of printing:
I have seen a lot of people say that plastic extruder assembly breaks in both the ender 3v2 and the Aquila after use. I upgraded mine before I started but you can wait a while.
You should change the stock bed springs to better ones. This is so you don't have to relevel the bed every time you print.
I also changed out my pneumatic fittings from the same kit I linked below.
Check out 3DPrintSOS on YouTube. This fella has about a dozen videos on the Voxelab Aquila as well as any upgrade files on his Thingiverse page. Be sure to check out his 3D printed extruder update video and file.
Also to add what the OP has been mentioning. You can never have too many spare parts on hand for your printer. Extra nozzles, a spare hotend, extra PTFE tubing and connectors, a couple thermistors and heater cartridges, and maybe a fan or 2. This way when something happens (and it will eventually) your not having to wait for the parts to arrive. The nice thing is that these parts are all fairly cheap on Amazon and if ordered out of China cheaper still.
Thanks OP. This thing will pay for itself in 4 prints for me.
Assembly was straight forward. Only missing the 2 blue tube clamps. Voxelab said these weren't necessary in the comments of the assembly video on YT.
Did anyone get the 2 blue tube clamps?
Bed leveling wasn't that difficult. I'm currently printing the test hook from the sdcard. Seems to be working fine. Going to keep everything stock for the first bunch of prints and look into upgrades later.
ae86gts wrote: ↑
Thanks OP. This thing will pay for itself in 4 prints for me.
Assembly was straight forward. Only missing the 2 blue tube clamps. Voxelab said these weren't necessary in the comments of the assembly video on YT.
Did anyone get the 2 blue tube clamps?
Bed leveling wasn't that difficult. I'm currently printing the test hook from the sdcard. Seems to be working fine. Going to keep everything stock for the first bunch of prints and look into upgrades later.
networksend wrote: ↑
How does it pay for itself in 4 prints?
I plan on printing large project cases, retro video game parts, and some replacement parts that are unavailable. Good example is the riser for a Sega 32x and Model 2 Genesis. These are hard to impossible to find.
I didn't read the thread so maybe it was said already.
But those looking to get more features on the new screens, Jyers has been going great work for the Ender 3 V2 and his code is slowly getting added to the Marlin code.
I believe there is a fork of jyerd firmware for this printer so look to getting it installed instead.
asd913 wrote: ↑
My recommendation for most people. Put it together stock and then do the above upgrades sooner than later.
I notice you have the filament mounted up top....
I'd like to second arisk's suggestion to add filament guides ( or move the filament spool down in line better with the extruder assembly). I put the spool sitting apart on a wood base.
My experience: As the spool runs down the angle the extruder feed pulls gets sharper and sharper and the extruder has resistance pulling it in.
It initially affected internal fills as they are printed at a higher rate. It gradually got bad enough that the the infills turned into a fuzzy mess.
I'm just glad I tried moving the filament first. If I hadn't just printed the same part earlier I'm not sure I would've figured it out. I'd hate to think I might've slowed down my printer instead,
Last edited by TravelJ on May 20th, 2021 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It appears they are dropshipping their Amazon.ca store stock to fulfill these orders. I got a Flashforge email today (day after ordering) and it redirected and Amazon shipping notification to an alternative source for viewing the shipping info. Not sure if that helps anyone on the fence about how long this will take to reach you home, it is nice to know the supply is coming from within Canada.
