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Whole House Humidifier -- Recommendations?

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Oct 24, 2005
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Burlington
Do you guys open the water valve all the way or just a pinch?
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Jun 1, 2010
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Tha_Doggg wrote: Do you guys open the water valve all the way or just a pinch?
It really depends on the water pressure. Some homes with high pressure will require the plumbing valve to be turned towards the closed position to reduce water pressure.
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Jun 16, 2009
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Vaughan
You need flow just enough to keep the evaporator wet. If you notice that there is too much water overflowing when the humidifier is ON, you can adjust the flow accordingly. There is no need for the water valve to be turned on all the way by default.
Tha_Doggg wrote: Do you guys open the water valve all the way or just a pinch?
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Feb 11, 2007
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Tha_Doggg wrote: Do you guys open the water valve all the way or just a pinch?
I have drum style humidifier with auto off float, so I just leave it open.
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Jun 16, 2009
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Vaughan
Be careful with drum type humidifier. Though drum type humidifiers do not waste water as flow through type, the failure of float switch often causes leak. Unless you have a timed drainer attached to it, standing water can cause bacteria growth.
engineered wrote: I have drum style humidifier with auto off float, so I just leave it open.
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newlyborn wrote: Be careful with drum type humidifier. Though drum type humidifiers do not waste water as flow through type, the failure of float switch often causes leak. Unless you have a timed drainer attached to it, standing water can cause bacteria growth.
Yes, I do keep an eye on it. The float switch is purely mechanical, so is pretty reliable, but even if it leaks it's not a biggie since the floor drain is right below it.
I do keep an eye on it to make sure there's no mold. My house needs so much humidity that there's lots of fresh water being replaced. I also make sure to shut it completely off when not in use, which I think is the biggest cause of mold in this type.
My biggest problem is cleaning the mineral deposits out each year. I have thought about adding a timed drainer to help with that.
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Nov 4, 2007
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Toronto
Thank you Ash from Fair Deal Heating! Installed an Aprilaire 700 last week and have noticed a difference in the indoor air, no more dry skin and the hassle of refilling multiple standalone small humidifiers with expensive distilled water.

Went above and beyond to get the job done correctly and was very patient with all my questions. Excellent communication and delivered as promised. Would recommend!
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Nov 2, 2005
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WFH
What's the recommendation for softened water?

I tried a flow through, Wait6000, a few years ago but the pads quickly clogged up with, I guess, NaHCO₃ that gets left behind after evaporation and the aluminum would disintegrate.

I've been using a console unit for the last few years but would like to move to a whole house for convenience but the last experience left a sour taste.

Do I need a unit that self flushes? Or something that doesn't use conventional pads e.g. the desert spring.
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dirtmover wrote: What's the recommendation for softened water?

I tried a flow through, Wait6000, a few years ago but the pads quickly clogged up with, I guess, NaHCO₃ that gets left behind after evaporation and the aluminum would disintegrate.

I've been using a console unit for the last few years but would like to move to a whole house for convenience but the last experience left a sour taste.

Do I need a unit that self flushes? Or something that doesn't use conventional pads e.g. the desert spring.
Why not hook up the humidifier before the water softener?
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Nov 2, 2005
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engineered wrote: Why not hook up the humidifier before the water softener?
The closest hard water is quite a distance away but apart from that my understanding is hard water and humidifiers don't play together too well either.
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Sep 29, 2007
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I have a Wait humidifier from at least 2002 when I bought my home. Furnace was replaced about five years ago. Anyways it is leaking from I believe the drain hose at the bottom where water drains. When I did get it running it stops after a few minutes even when furnace is going.

Noone seems interested in fixing this. I have a handyman who could probably do it but I'm wondering though should I just get a new one? I was quoted around $800. Are the new ones "better" than the old school ones. I'm guessing not, but like I say noone wants to fix a 20 year old humidifier it seems. DIY is not an option, I'm an idiot at anything mechanical and I'm OK with that.
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Jun 16, 2009
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Vaughan
Where are you located ? 800 $ for a bypass humidifier is little too steep. You can get Aprilaire 700 for that price. 700 is fan assisted humidifier and is one of the most efficient models in market.
Try changing evaporator pad in your exiting humidifier and see if it still leaks. I am not a big fan of DIY big box store humidifiers as they have plenty of other issues.
retireat50 wrote: I have a Wait humidifier from at least 2002 when I bought my home. Furnace was replaced about five years ago. Anyways it is leaking from I believe the drain hose at the bottom where water drains. When I did get it running it stops after a few minutes even when furnace is going.

Noone seems interested in fixing this. I have a handyman who could probably do it but I'm wondering though should I just get a new one? I was quoted around $800. Are the new ones "better" than the old school ones. I'm guessing not, but like I say noone wants to fix a 20 year old humidifier it seems. DIY is not an option, I'm an idiot at anything mechanical and I'm OK with that.
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Sep 29, 2007
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newlyborn wrote: Where are you located ? 800 $ for a bypass humidifier is little too steep. You can get Aprilaire 700 for that price.
Try changing evaporator pad in your exiting humidifier and see if it still leaks. I am not a big fan of DIY big box store humidifiers as they have plenty of other issues.
I'm in Edmonton. I THINK it has a new filter. I had a filter in a box and can't recall if it was new or old.....the humidifier hasn't worked for five years lol. I think it is new as doesn't look scaly and it is in the correct way as far as I know - marking on pad at the top. I'm totally OK getting a new one (qoutes I got are for GeneralAire) just wondering if fixing old one is worth it
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Jun 16, 2009
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Vaughan
It is not worth to repair a very old humidifier.
Have a pro installation done that interlocks the humidifier with heating cycle and is not powered 24x7 externally unlike Wait.
However, shop around for better pricing as I assume you were quoted 800 for by pass kind and not fan assisted or steam humidifier.
retireat50 wrote: I'm in Edmonton. I THINK it has a new filter. I had a filter in a box and can't recall if it was new or old.....the humidifier hasn't worked for five years lol. I think it is new as doesn't look scaly and it is in the correct way as far as I know - marking on pad at the top. I'm totally OK getting a new one (qoutes I got are for GeneralAire) just wondering if fixing old one is worth it
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Dec 10, 2007
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Toronto
As many other RFDers have, I gave Ash a shout and he came to install two whole home humidifiers. I have a complex system and a high velocity furnace system. It was tough and took a while, but Ash completed the task professionally. He’s also just a real nice guy. I recommend Fair Deal Heating & Air Conditioning. Thanks Ash for everything!
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Nov 2, 2005
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WFH
newlyborn wrote: Where are you located ? 800 $ for a bypass humidifier is little too steep. You can get Aprilaire 700 for that price. 700 is fan assisted humidifier and is one of the most efficient models in market.
Try changing evaporator pad in your exiting humidifier and see if it still leaks. I am not a big fan of DIY big box store humidifiers as they have plenty of other issues.
Curious what makes this model "one of the most efficient models in market"? It's still flow through so still wastes a ton of water.

According to Aprilaire it's rated for homes up to 5300sqft. Pretty sure that's in the low single digit % as far as Canadian home sizes go so why do we continually get recommendations for such a high capacity unit?
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Jun 16, 2009
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Vaughan
UPTO is the key word here. Aprilaire 700 is mounted directly on supply side of the furnace and on top of it, it has its own built in fan which pushes the humidity way faster in comparison to bypass humidifier. By pass humidifiers are great solution but do not work as efficient as fan assisted or steam humidifier. Difference in humidity is noticeable with in first few hours with Aprilaire 700. I have recently upgraded my own humidifier from old bypass model to 700 for the same reasons. Wanted to do it long ago but regret now why I did not do it earlier. My house is around 2000 sq ft ( no where close to 5000 Sq ft)

An useful link with a summary :
https://humidifieronly.com/aprilaire-700-review/
dirtmover wrote: Curious what makes this model "one of the most efficient models in market"? It's still flow through so still wastes a ton of water.

According to Aprilaire it's rated for homes up to 5300sqft. Pretty sure that's in the low single digit % as far as Canadian home sizes go so why do we continually get recommendations for such a high capacity unit?
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Aug 11, 2006
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gbssengo wrote: As many other RFDers have, I gave Ash a shout and he came to install two whole home humidifiers. I have a complex system and a high velocity furnace system. It was tough and took a while, but Ash completed the task professionally. He’s also just a real nice guy. I recommend Fair Deal Heating & Air Conditioning. Thanks Ash for everything!
I second this.

Ash from Fair Deal Heating was great to deal to with. Got the Aprilaire 600 installed in my high velocity furnace and he even helped button up some loose ends by previous HVAC techs.

Definitely recommend his services as good and honest installers are hard to come by.
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Jun 13, 2010
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Tha_Doggg wrote: Do you guys open the water valve all the way or just a pinch?
I tested both ways and both use the same amount of water. I unhooked the drain tube and fully open, half way or only a little bit the time it took to fill a 1 cup container was within seconds of each other.
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Nov 2, 2005
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WFH
tew wrote: I tested both ways and both use the same amount of water. I unhooked the drain tube and fully open, half way or only a little bit the time it took to fill a 1 cup container was within seconds of each other.
There must be an orifice in the line to restrict the flow rendering the water supply valve an on/off device only? So curious how long it takes to fill a cup i.e. how many gallons per hour is going down the drain when the unit is in active?

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