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Work Shop build at the cabin - starting with the plans

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  • May 30th, 2022 11:43 pm
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
Nov 17, 2012
5065 posts
4614 upvotes
Toronto

Work Shop build at the cabin - starting with the plans

Threads like this seem to be appreciated by some, so why not.

I'm planning a work shop/office accessory building for up at the cottage. Likely about 12 x 20, so of course building permits are involved.

Thankfully the inspector seems to be OK with my DIY drawings.

Above the lower roof, the wall will be clad with polycarbonate clear panels set in aluminum channels to allow light in. If needed there will be diagonal bracing on the interior to make up for the sheathing not going to the top of the wall.

I'll level the ground in the space, toss some landscape cloth down and dump some gravel in I figure and use it for some basic storage, motorcycle parking and back the small tin boat/trailer in for the winter months.

I picked up some stupid big sliding glass door panels that are 5 x 9 foot in size. 6 of them in total for $200.

They're part of an old sliding door system I think that might have been used in a mall on a storefront or something, although one of them has a 'man door' built into it that doesn't lock. Regardless, I'm using 3 of them to face the lake, hence the massive window openings on that wall.

On one short wall I'll have a regular entry door and a rolling garage door for motorcycle access. I'll just put a temporary ramp up when I need to get a bike in and out. If I built a permanent ramp I'd need railings on it no more than 32" away at any point as it would raise more than the 15.7" I could find in the code.

I'm going to keep the floor at >24" above grade so I don't need any railings there (to the best of my knowledge) and I don't need railings on the steps (3 treads = no railings from what I can figure).

The 'north east west south' on the elevations is a little misleading. The 'north' elevation faces more or less perfectly North-West and gets a great sunset from April to November.

Between the tall front facing windows I plan to put some ventilation in, by screening in a section and putting a simple wood panel on the exterior that I can open/close from inside.

I may frame in an operating sliding window at the rear for cross ventilation and/or on the East elevation wall. It faces my neighbour's mess so I'm not rushing to put windows in that wall, plus I need some wall space for my tool chests etc. I might even frame in a bathroom in that corner for a composting toilet (off grid, can't slope to the already small septic system).

Any thoughts/suggestions/corrections to my rudimentary amateur framing diagrams are welcomed.

I'll evolve the plans, submit for permit and begin building in the early spring. The only thing I expect to contract out are the footings and possibly the planned metal roof.

The drawings are not to scale - probably far from it :). I just whipped them up in PowerPoint - my tool of choice for this kind of thing.

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Last edited by torontotim on Nov 12th, 2021 8:21 am, edited 2 times in total.
5 replies
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
Nov 17, 2012
5065 posts
4614 upvotes
Toronto
Drawings approved and permits issued. Staking out the area for footings.

The building has increased in size to 16' x 20' with a 12' covered storage area on the back and the height has gone up 2'.


East Elevation.jpeg
Floor Framing Plan.jpeg
Floor Plan Use of Space.jpeg
North Elevation.jpeg
South Elevation.jpeg
West Elevation.jpeg
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
Nov 17, 2012
5065 posts
4614 upvotes
Toronto
Any suggestions on low pitch roofing would be welcomed. I'm going with steel as the building will be situated in the middle of a bunch of white pines and will be constantly rained down on with needles, sap etc.

From what I've read 'standing seam' is the way to go for low pitch, but I haven't found much that tells me a particular type of roofing is good for this low pitch in Ontario.

My floor joist layout might change too, as it might make more sense to have 3 shorter beams and shorter joists overlapping on the centre. My 10 x 24 sunroom is built like that - the joists run the long way.

The inspector added to my drawings that I either need to double up the rim joists on the short ends or add blocking 48" OC. I planned to add blocking through the entire floor system to stiffen it up and keep the joists from ever twisting in any case.

Footings need to be at least 48" deep which is also a bit shallower than I was expecting.
Deal Addict
Oct 22, 2016
1006 posts
946 upvotes
Comox Valley
torontotim wrote: Any suggestions on low pitch roofing would be welcomed. I'm going with steel as the building will be situated in the middle of a bunch of white pines and will be constantly rained down on with needles, sap etc.

If I am not mistaken your 1 in 8 slope, is a 1/12 pitch. On a metal roof, on that low a pitch, some people will say no. But others will say you can go lower than that to 1/4”. https://roof-experts.ca/blog/minimum-sl ... etal-roof/
https://www.metalconstruction.org/metal ... lope-roofs

You may want to look, into special waterproof techniques as first link states. And this might be overkill, but upgrade the membrane under the metal (ice and water?), due to the needles, and sap will clog things up, especially been at a cabin, where you might not be all the time.

Another good site for info is here,
https://secure.ontarioroofing.com/links.aspx
And if you send an email to some of the commercial roofing contractors, they would be up on the specs for it.
[OP]
Deal Fanatic
Nov 17, 2012
5065 posts
4614 upvotes
Toronto
User452441 wrote: If I am not mistaken your 1 in 8 slope, is a 1/12 pitch. On a metal roof, on that low a pitch, some people will say no. But others will say you can go lower than that to 1/4”. https://roof-experts.ca/blog/minimum-sl ... etal-roof/
https://www.metalconstruction.org/metal ... lope-roofs

You may want to look, into special waterproof techniques as first link states. And this might be overkill, but upgrade the membrane under the metal (ice and water?), due to the needles, and sap will clog things up, especially been at a cabin, where you might not be all the time.

Another good site for info is here,
https://secure.ontarioroofing.com/links.aspx
And if you send an email to some of the commercial roofing contractors, they would be up on the specs for it.
100% the entire roof will be covered in ice/water shield, then strapped and then the metal roofing. I did a bunkie like this and it has been great. I've seen other materials used in the place of wood strapping to allow breathing under the metal roof similar to a plastic mesh I used under cedar shakes at my house but I think I'll stick with 1x4 strapping. I might install the strapping installed at a 45 degree angle - I expect it would allow better drainage if any water did get under the metal and might encourage more air flow.

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