Automotive

Would you work on your car brakes?

  • Last Updated:
  • Apr 18th, 2022 8:01 pm
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[OP]
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Mar 28, 2008
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Would you work on your car brakes?

I’m pretty sure I have an issue with the brakes on my 2016 Accord. It has about 30,000 km, mix of city but a fair bit of highway also (including round trip ON to AB). Issue from being hardly driven at times (have been keeping battery charged though). Sometimes there were days or weeks between use; last winter it was taken off the road for 4 months but was at least in family’s garage. After that it seemed okay, brakes maybe not as smooth as new, initially in particular. This winter hasn’t driven much either, including not at all for like 7 weeks.

After that, one wheel has been making a rubbing sound, comes and goes a bit and thought it was snow/ice initially (sounded like such and was during snow), but hasn’t gone away and now been worse (more so when braking, and avoiding driving it as result). The car handles okay, the brake feels maybe not quite as smooth as it should (but not any severe vibration), probably wouldn’t notice if it not the sound and looking for it. Not having to push the pedal extra far, pulling to a side or anything. The only thing is once when I was backing up it seemed to stick/jump.

Basically I think it’s corrosion deterioration from not enough use to keep worn smooth, if that makes sense? Obviously it’s hard to tell for sure without looking. I’m thinking I want to replace all the brakes, including all rotors and pads, and try to do a complete job of it. Probably not worth trying to replace just pads for example.

I’m contemplating about replacing the brakes myself. At the very least I think I’m going to take the wheel off to take a look. I’m not a mechanic, but in electrical. Grew up on farm doing stuff like oil and tire changes and basic maintenance/repair on machinery but not anything major like engine rebuilds. I currently still do oil changes and tire changeovers.

Would this be something to take on? Where are good places to get parts? I’m a couple hours from GTA, so other than a couple places like Canadian Tire and Napa, it would probably mean online order.
113 replies
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Nov 6, 2014
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Brakes in general are easy to replace rotors and pads. You can come across some challenges with electric parking brakes that need a scan tool to retract or special tools like reverse torx or allen keys which you may not have. It all depends on the vehicle but for the most part should be easy.

When in doubt....you tube it.

What vehicle do you drive?
Jr. Member
Dec 16, 2021
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Brakes are extremely easy but time consuming because you need to pay close attention to what you are doing. If you swap out the brakes, you also need a brake caliper tool to compress the calipers when installing.

Rockauto is likely a good place to source parts.

Also YouTube 1AAuto and Accord. They have some really good videos on how to service cars.
Last edited by theurbansuburban on Mar 24th, 2022 1:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
[OP]
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Mar 28, 2008
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fordmaple wrote: Brakes in general are easy to replace rotors and pads. You can come across some challenges with electric parking brakes that need a scan tool to retract or special tools like reverse torx or allen keys which you may not have. It all depends on the vehicle but for the most part should be easy.

When in doubt....you tube it.

What vehicle do you drive?
2016 Honda Accord
(sorry the post got long, hiding that info lol. I should probably TLDR)
Jr. Member
Oct 18, 2021
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Brakes are super easy to DIY. I've done all kinds on my own. You car is very common and I'm sure there are probably great Youtube videos to walk you through it. As someone else mentioned Haynes/Chiltons manuals are also available if you want a book to follow.
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I did my own brakes after watching several youtube. Like others said, disk brakes are very easy. There are youtube movies for drum brakes too, but it looks very complicated (many pieces that you have to put back), and generally drums last 150km, 200km or even the life of the car if you take care of your brakes and don't do many aggressive braking (my front disk brakes last 80km, back disk brakes still had plenty of pad left, so I'll do those when I'll do my fronts again in another 80km).

Changing filters (air, cabin), oil, and drain fill coolant/tranny is something anyone can do with a bit of courage and youtube. Problem with newer car is the tranny is sealed and makes access to the fill point harder (I have to take my air box to access the fill point).
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Aug 12, 2008
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if you're doing honda drum brakes that are old and the drum has rusted over, you will want an impact tool and your life will be good.
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Feb 11, 2007
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Brakes aren't hard to work on. Just be careful and watch a few DIY vids for your car, or a maintenance manual. Make sure you have everything you need before hand. Always use axle stands to support the car when your working on it.

But first, you should try re-bedding in your brakes to help clean them up. If it isn't too bad, you should be able to clean up the rust. This means going to an empty area and getting up to 100kph then braking down to 10kph about 10 times, then drive without stopping for 10 min to cool the brakes.
Post pics of your brakes if you can.
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Nov 30, 2007
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I would "service" the brakes first and it will give you a familiarity if anything needs to be replaced. I can't see you needed new rotors with only 30k km and would be even doubtful you need pads unless you are hard on them. With servicing you're dismantling the pads, cleaning the surface area and surroundings and reapplying brake grease. All you need are basic tools, brake cleaner and brake grease.

It is possible that you have a sticky caliper based on what you're telling me, though. That would require a rebuild.
[OP]
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Thanks all responses so far. In response to a few things,

The car is 4 wheel disc brakes, so no drum brakes to deal with fortunately by the sounds of it.

And yes it seems quite soon to change from wear; I'm like the lightest driver around, probably piss most of you off coasting to stops lol (I'm rural where it doesn't affect people so much, city I am more aggressive but not as aggressive as others). But I wonder if that has hurt me more in this case as then it doesn't see enough wear to keep the corrosion at bay.

Maybe it won't need all new parts, I'm just suspicious from what it's doing, particularly with the one wheel, and if doing one probably should all. I partly get this from I had a Ranger pickup 10 years ago with a similar situation of long times between uses. The brakes didn't feel all that smooth, and this seems similar but with added noise. And when I had to get it certified I had to replace them all and got a bit of mouthful from the mechanic guy (don't quite remember but I think the rotors were warped or something and saying they'd be getting hot/etc). Mind you he did refer to maybe could try to refurbish them, but a lot of labour without guarantee, so replacement was the thing. Or maybe I was being taken.

At some point here I'll try taking the wheel off to take a look and go from there.

In the future, I probably should be considering this more since I tend not to drive a lot (but covid also aggravated that). Do some things like re-bedding mentioned above - I think something like that might have helped if sooner, but nervous it's gone too far. Maybe it will but I'd like to look first before aggressively doing stuff like that.
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Mar 31, 2008
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How about cars with drum brakes?
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Ensure you take your time to work on your brakes and don't rush it; don't forget to pump your brakes before you drive :)

Doing your own brakes can be a rewarding experience!
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Oct 12, 2007
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Brakes like being used. They don't do well being parked for extended periods - especially wet. I just ordered a replacement kit for front and back rotors/pads for my daughter's car that has only 45k on the odo. There's nothing wrong with the thickness of the parts but they are pitted and corroded due to water, salt, and lack of use. It sucks but it is what it is.

I do my own brakes and inspect them twice a year and lube them every year. Recently, I missed one wheel on one of four cars in the family fleet and that one wheel experienced a seized glide pin. I only noticed it when I started to hear a rubbing/grinding sound. It was easily corrected but I was disappointed that I had overlooked inspecting/lubing that one wheel the previous year.
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Mar 13, 2004
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If you decide to replace your brakes here are some good suggestions. I selected the 2.4L engine as not sure if you have it or the V6 or the model. Pads will differ depending on the specifics so confirm these are for your model.

Front Pads: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 4&jsn=1723
Rear Pads: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 4&jsn=1716

Front Rotor: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 6&jsn=1842
Rear Rotor: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 6&jsn=1819

Be sure to buy the correct lube for the sliders & correct lube for the edges of the pads. You also may consider changing your brake fluid as its also important.
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Mar 23, 2004
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Well I wouldn't let anyone else work on them so yes definitely.

Anyway I believe in you OP! Just make sure, first and foremost, you are taking all the appropriate safety precautions. Also you will need at least basic tools and equipment to work on a car--jack, stands, ratchet/sockets/wrenches, etc. As you said you do oil changes and wheel swaps, you probably have most of this. You'll also need some standard stuff you use for brake services--brake cleaner, brake lube (most of the times new brake pads come with packets of this), new unopened brake fluid, bleeder bottles (or just use clear pvc hose in the right size and an empty pasta sauce bottle). If you don't have any bleeding equipment--pressure bleeder or speed bleeder screws, a helper should be used when bleeding the brakes. On rear brake calipers you typically also need a special tool to compress the pistons; on vehicles with electronic parking brake you may also need a scan tool to retract the PB to the service position--sometimes there isn't an easy or cheap solution for this, unfortunately.

Find a forum for your particular make and model, and there's bound to be a writeup on it; plus there's likely YT videos on your vehicle or one very similar. Most brakes are generally the same, but the reason you want to be as "vehicle specific" as possible is then you will know exactly what tools (e.g. special bits, socket sizes, that kind of thing) you need and exactly what bolt is where, and what things to do and expect when doing the job. If possible the best idea is to have someone that has done brakes before (friend, family member, etc.) go through it with you on your first one--thereafter future brake jobs you should be able to tackle on your own :)
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Feb 22, 2006
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at1212b wrote: How about cars with drum brakes?
If you take pictures and do one side at a time, it's not too horrible, just check online your make and model and see what others say. My 1st gen KIA is a nightmare to do the drums so I let the mechanic do them.
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at1212b wrote: How about cars with drum brakes?
It's not too bad. In the pre-internet days, the first drum brake I did took me 40min, then the other side took 10min. Would be a lot easier now with all of the DIY vids.
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Brakes are simple and easy to do. I would rather do them myself than have a shop do them and forget to install a caliper bolt.

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